Random overland view. I was actually trying to capture the zebras on the right, which didn't turn out so well - but the fauna is descriptive in itself.After delaying my flight one day in exchange for a $750 travel voucher, I boarded an 8.5 hour flight to Amsterdam, spent 4 blurry hours in the Amsterdam airport (if you're thinking shrooms, sorry to disappoint; just physical and mental exhaustion), and got on another 8.25 hour flight to Nairobi. I arrived at 8:30 pm, in time to go through immigration, get my bags, and find a hotel.
For those of you who worried about me traveling alone in Kenya, I can assure you that my trip was entirely safe and I did not once feel even slightly threatened. I also came to terms with the rationale behind my total lack of fear: I leave on a journey "alone" but never remain so for long. I just talk openly and smile a lot, and before I know it I have found allies and friends who keep me from feeling the uncertainty of solitude. This trip, for example, I met a French marine biologist who does the deep sea filming for Planet Earth; a poli sci PhD candidate at Columbia who is doing research on post-civil-war attitudes in Burundi; a Kenyan taxi driver who could not have been older than 16 but helped me find a hotel with a solid rate; and finally, on the bus, a Kenyan affiliated with Duke University who works in an office connected to One Acre Fund.
I feel obliged to share one story, since I previously mentioned the impact of country gatekeepers, i.e. immigration officials. The Kenyan official did not disappoint. Despite the long line behind me, he paged through my passport and demanded, "So much travel but you have never visited Kenya? I think this is a serious problem." And then made me learn three Swahili phrases before I could proceed to get my bags - which were, unsurprisingly, already waiting for me by the time I finally completed the visa procedure.
Streets of Nairobi before the 8 am bus took off for Bungoma- How foreign I am. (They have a word for it here, too - in China I was "waiguoren"; here everyone calls me "mzungu.") From my departure from the airport to my arrival in Bungoma, I did not see one single person who was not black. By the time I was arriving in Bungoma, I realized I was avoiding looking at my own skin, which 24 short hours seemed to have become strangely, almost irridescently pale. However, people did not stare at me quite as much as in China, and the few people who did look at me seemed to be laughing or smiling to themselves, as if it were cute or funny that I happened to be present. I have appreciated that about Kenyans in general so far: they have been perpetually smiling, friendly, easy-going.
- Squat toilets. I'm a pro.
- Buses. I boarded the one today and was shocked at how nice it was. Sure, there was no air conditioning, and it bumped up and down crazily over the unpaved roads, but the seats were all cushioned and in their proper positions. There was a place to stow baggage underneath and compartments above for carry-on items. And, best of all, it was not overcrowded; we had assigned seats and did not even fill the entire bus.
- Street food. Today at our lunch stop I had no problem pointing to a few items at a cart: bread, chicken, and a Fanta. The total? About one US dollar. So glad to be back in the land of low prices!
- Time change. Just as I experienced no jet lag in my return home from China, I navigated the 9 hour change to Kenya time with ease and now already feel that it is 7:30 on Tuesday evening. I'm pretty sure my irregular sleep and hectic lifestyle actually help me in this regard!
About my housing: We got electricity last week (!) in my house, and WIRELESS INTERNET two weeks ago at a house up the hill. I still don't have running water, so I bathe in a bucket, but not a big deal - there is running water elsewhere in the house, and we have an on-site family who fetches well water and even cleans for us a couple days a week. It's hardly roughing it, but I guess the point of the program is not to do missionary work per se but to establish a profitable enterprise by which development and good business practices can go hand in hand. Also I was very pleased to see that when I arrived, Andrew - our director - was trying to convince a couple of the guys to go running with him. Apparently there are fabulous trails here, and so much to see.
My bed, awaiting me upon my arrival. Gotta love the free One Acre Fund T-shirt and mosquito net. Also, apologies for not getting more of the room in the picture, but this is as much as I can capture in one shot. (It's pretty small...) But rest assured, you are not missing nothing, as there is nothing else in my room.
4 comments:
So glad to hear you made it there safely!
Jealous, but so excited for you! That sounds completely awesome.
Congrats on making another smooth transition, stud!
Good to hear you made it there safe and sound, and I hope your hallucinogenic overnight in Amsterdam ends up financing some good day trips. It all sounds very cool so far, interested to see what else you discover...
You know Amber - They say that everything happens for a reason (and sometimes I find that hard to believe), but seems to have been the case here. I bet you nothing that the teaching program or the African Children program in ET would have provided would have compared to what you have here. I know Africa and a bit about doing the sort of work you are involved in, and your arrangement is fantastic! enjoy and I am glad you got there safely etc.
Lullit
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