you're driving on the WRONG SIDE OF THE ROAD

Andy and I are both very flexible, figure-it-out-as-you-go travelers, so it's probably not a surprise that we strayed from our original itinerary. We cashed in 2 days in Yogyakarta for 2 extra days on the Indonesian island of Bali, and explored basically the entire eastern half by the end of our stay here.

We kept busy and moving throughout our time in Bali, meaning we got to see many different faces of the small but famous island. First, the super-touristy strip of beach - the area that has been bombed twice by terrorists since Sept 11. (Fun Fact: Bali is the only Hindu island in the Indonesian archipelago; the rest are Muslim. There is evidently a bit of tension surrounding this point.) Second, the more relaxed but still resort-like beaches of Candi Dasa. Next, a practically tourist-free area in northern Bali called Amed. Finally, a day exploring ancient temples and water palaces. How's that for variety?

You might be wondering about the taxi and bus fares involved in all this spontaneous exploration. The reason behind it is also the reason why this trip was so (overly) adventurous-feeling: Andy decided to rent a car. I would say "we" decided, because we had discussed it, but in reality I was changing one morning and came down to see Andy signing off on a car with a Balinese car rental service.

So what do you need to rent a car in Bali? I suppose it's more formal if you go through a legitimate rental service, but to simply borrow a beat-up jeep, as we did, it's ridiculously easy. Even if we don't have an international driver's license ("No problem - if you get in trouble with police, just pay small fine."), have never driven on the left side of the road, and certainly never operated a stick-shift vehicle with the left hand. As my students in China would say, "Aiiiii-ya."

Since I'm able to type this now, you can be reassured that we - and the car - did come out in one piece. And the places that car took us were indescribable. And even un-photograph-able, apparently, because I never ceased to be frustrated with the inability of my camera to capture the scenery around me.
So I'll give you just one image, from a walk we took after we arrived in Amed:

A beat-up road, with green hills rising up on either side, covered in palm trees and other lush vegetation. The hills are actually rice terraces, meaning they have in many places been formed into stair-steps to enable rice to grow. Between the hills and road, Balinese are working in the fields. One man is barefoot, sweating, as two cows pull him and a big metal contraption across a watery field. He sees two foreigners, pauses his work, and then frees a hand to smile and wave. There are two young children with leaf-filled baskets on their heads walking ahead, and they too turn around and wave with a shy "hallo." There are two near-teenage boys swimming (bathing?) in the gutter, and are not the least embarrassed as we approach; instead, one waves happily while the other laughs and tries to splash us with water. The Balinese are poor but seem so happy, and readily let a foreigner use their bathroom - but not before cleaning it quickly and then apologizing for its condition. It is, after all, just a hole in the floor next to a bucket of water.

Are you getting from this description my extreme love for Bali? It's the kind of place with such a low cost of living that Westerners can easily live on savings forever, and some do. Good thing I already have a ticket out, because wandering the rice terraces does seem quite a bit more relaxing than law school...

Beyond the scenery and the people (although, what else do you need?), Bali has a few additional selling points:

• Really interesting religion: 80% of Balinese are practicing Hindus. In Bali, you don't need to take a day trip to a temple or place of worship; they are on every block. Also, people regularly place incense and flowers in front of their homes and businesses, so virtually all of Bali smells like a little tropical paradise. I learned a bit about Balinese Hinduism from our self-appointed water palace guide, and found the 3-point moral code to be especially cool: positive thinking, positive speaking, and positive acting. Maybe that explains their happy demeanor?
  
• Beaches: There are brown, white, and black sand beaches in Bali, some with excellent diving and snorkelling. Shark sightings are guaranteed, and there is even an underwater shipwreck open for exploration! Next time...?
• Cost of living: Just bought a snack of a bag of peanuts, bag of chips, and a Sprite (wow, feelin' healthy now). Total, less than US$1. Meals are usually $2-3; hotels/hostels can be found for not too much more. And this is the expensive Indonesian island.

Of course, there are downsides. Watching the endless song & dance the Balinese perform for their Western guests gets a bit sickening - but that's tourism?, stray dogs everywhere, people constantly trying to get you to pay way too much and for unnecessary things. But if I've sold anyone on a trip, well... I'll join you for Bali Round 2. (Ahem, maybe after I pay off my law school debt.)

On to Singapore tonight, just in time for Chinese New Year. Happy Year-of-Ox!